Thursday, May 15, 2008

Cioppino

Developed in the late 1800s, Italian immigrant fishermen in the North Beach area of San Francisco are responsible for creating this rich stew. Originally it was made on the boats while out at sea and later became a menu staple as Italian restaurants proliferated in San Francisco. Cioppino is comparable to bouillabaisse from Provence, or to Italy's cacciucco and brodetto.
Recipes for Cioppino vary mostly by fish used, but this Genoa-inspired recipe nearly always includes basil, oregano, parsley and crushed red pepper flakes. I did, however, locate what I might deem "Nouveau Cioppino", with fennel seeds and dried marjoram, if you're looking for a twist on the original.


8 fresh clams in shells (such as littlenecks)
8 oz. fresh fish filets (red snapper, perch, sea bass, or halibut)
8 oz fresh (or frozen) peeled and deveined shrimp
1 (1-lb) king crab leg, thawed if frozen
1/2 cup sliced fresh mushrooms

1/3 cup chopped sweet red pepper
1/4 cup chopped onion
2-3 cloves garlic
2 California bay leaves
1 tablespoon olive oil
24.5 oz. can tomatoes, diced
1 cup dry red wine
2 tablespoons snipped fresh Italian parsley
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1.5 teaspoons snipped fresh basil
1.5 teaspoons snipped fresh oregano
1 teaspoon sugar
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1. Scrub fresh clam shells under cold running water using a stiff brush. In a large pot, combine 8 cups water and 3 tablespoons salt. Add clams, soak for 15 minutes, drain and rinse. Discard water. Repeat the soaking, draining and rinsing steps 2 more times.
2. Hack crab leg through shell into 2- to 3-inch pieces with a large heavy knife.
3. Remove and discard fish skin, if present. Cut fish into 1.5-inch pieces. Cover and refrigerate fish pieces and shrimp until needed.
4. In a large saucepan, cook mushrooms, sweet pepper, onion, and garlic in hot oil until tender but not brown. Stir in undrained tomatoes, wine, parsley, tomato paste, lemon juice, basil, oregano, sugar, crushed red pepper, 1/4 cup water (or bottled clam juice), and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Bring to boiling, reduce heat. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes.
5. Add clams, fish pieces, crab, and shrimp to saucepan. Cover and simmer for 5-10 minutes more until clams open, fish flakes easily, and shrimp are opaque. Discard any unopened clams after 10 minutes and the bay leaves.
Makes about 6 cups of stew, or 4 main-dish servings.
Serve stew with toasted, buttered sourdough or baguette, or with over spaghetti or other long pasta as a main dish.

Food Fact! It's nice to know that clams rank high on the list of eco-friendly seafood; Littleneck clams are farmed in protected bays and estuaries from California to Alaska, which is within their native range. Alaska, where many farms are located, has strict controls over the leasing and harvesting process. Destructive mechanical harvesting is prohibited, requiring that clams be harvested by hand.

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