Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Coq au Vin for Special Diets

This gorgeous version of Coq au Vin is ideal for gluten-free and low-carb eaters, as it does not contain the wheat flour called for in traditional recipes.
This dish is as ubiquitous in France as, say, ratatouille; every French person claims to have grown up on it. Most Francophiles have a story about the best Coq au Vin they ever ate, and of the person who prepared it. It's comfort food---decadent comfort food--but comforting, to be sure. This recipe is rewarding to make at every step, from the peeling of the tiny pearl onions to the delicious scent of red wine simmering with garlic and fresh thyme. In order to convince my husband to join my joy, I made it several times in a row. (You're living well when there's Coq au Vin leftovers in the fridge.) If you love Coq au Vin, please try this recipe and write to me about your impressions. If you've never made it, try it now and fall in love!

1 large chicken, jointed into 6 or 8 pieces (or 3 lbs chicken thighs)
1 onion, peeled and roughly chopped
6 whole peppercorns
5 ounces pancetta or unsmoked bacon
1 ounce butter; 1.5 ounces butter (separated)
2 medium French onions, cut into long strips
2 ribs of celery, chopped
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 bottle of full-body red wine (pinot noir, Burgundy, or Cotes du Rhone)
4 or 5 small sprigs of fresh thyme
3 bay leaves
12 pearl onions, peeled (shallots will work)
7 ounces small mushrooms, halved or quartered (crimini or porcini)

Put the chicken into a deep pan, cover with water, add an onion, bay leaves, and whole peppercorns and bring to a boil. Turn the heat down and let it simmer while you cut the pancetta into short strips. The pancetta should be thicker than a match but not as thick as your pinky finger. Put the pancetta, together with 1 ounce of butter, into a thick-bottomed casserole (ideally enamelled cast iron) and cook over moderate heat. Stir the pancetta and butter occasionally to keep from burning, and when it is golden, transfer to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pan.
Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper and place them in the remaining hot fat in the casserole, so that they fit snugly. Allow them to cook for 3-4 minutes or until the underside is honey-colored but not brown. Turn the chicken pieces over and resume cooking. (Note: Michel Montignac says, "it is this coloring of the skin, rather than what wine or herbs you might add later, that is crucial to the flavor of the dish."
When both sides of the chicken are golden, add the chicken to the bowl with the pancetta. Your pan should have a thin film that will play a key role in adding flavor to the dish. Add the onions and celery to the pan and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic, then return the chicken and pancetta to the pan, and let everything cook together for a few minutes before pouring in the wine and tucking in the herbs. Begin ladling the simmering chicken stock into the pan until the entire chicken is covered. Increase heat; just before it comes to a boil, turn the heat down so the sauce bubbles gently. Cover partially with a lid.
Melt 1.5 ounces butter in a small pan, add the pearl onions and then the mushrooms. Cook gently until golden, then add them to the chicken with a seasoning of salt and pepper.
Allow everything to cook together for 40 minutes, then check the tenderness of the chicken. (It should be soft but not falling from its bones.) Depending on the type of chicken you are using, the entire process will likely take one hour. When chicken pieces are tender, place them on serving dishes and reduce the remaining sauce by increasing the heat and letting it bubble enthusiastically for 5-6 minutes. As it bubbles down, it will become thicker and quite glossy. Ladle over chicken and serve. Serves 4.

Food Fact! Coq au Vin is French for "rooster in wine"---traditionally a cock from Bresse and a wine from Burgundy, cooked with pork, mushrooms and garlic. Many chefs believe the older the poultry is, the better your Coq au Vin will be. Older roosters are traditionally used because they contain a lot of connective tissue, which creates a richer broth when cooked. Nigel Slater describes Coq au Vin as, "a dish that has stood the test of time and lined a million happy bellies...The sort whose juices you mop up with bread." Bon appetit!

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